Efeste 2005 Big Papa Cabernet Sauvignon

*Bottle #56: Efeste 2005 Columbia Valley Big Papa Cabernet Sauvignon
*Price Tag: $40
*Running Tab: $710

One of my favorite winos in Woodinville, WA wine country is Efeste's Brennon Leighton. Winemaker for the label, Brennon looks to be more likely on a Harley than in a cellar. Painted in tats, massive in size compared to, say, Lou Facelli in his 5'6" frame and usually caught guzzling some sort of alcoholic beverage (I've witnessed a chocolate martini to Limoncello to stout transition), Brennon and his equally large business partner, Patrick Smith are the faces of this equally large Northwest winery.

Speaking of large, the reason why I went with this wine this week was because I am in pursuit of a big, f'ing Cab. I'm talking huge, abrasive, tarry, bad-for-your-lungs tobacco, the darkest fruit around, vuluptous, suck-your-mouth-dry while punching-you-in-the-face kinda Cab Sauv.

Now, most would go looking for such specific Cab in a warmer climate based off of these characteristics than Eastern Washington, but nay! Must support Washington!

Brennon gets a little assistance on the Big Guy from DeLille Cellar's Chris Upchurch. The man is known for making big, robust reds so for my Cab requirements, we're in the clear. Formerly a winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle (but who wasn't...), Brennon knows his mass production wine and went the other direction with his Efeste juice, producing much smaller lots.

The Big Papa is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which is actually a little rare because it's such a tannic mouthful of a varietal. In my case, I thought: bring it on. Then they throw in 90% new French oak, allowing the already hugely tannic varietal to suck in fresh, hugely tannic oak. Brennon used 100% malolactic fermentation to smooth it out, so you are able to keep your jaw attached after drinking this wine in all its tannic glory.

And finally, these are old vines. Old vines in Washington means 30 years and up (35 years with Kiona Vineyards in Red Mountain and Sagemoor Farms). So older, smaller clusters of grapes creating more concentrated fruit for an already sturdy and concentrated varietal.

All signs point to huge.

Dark fig and plum aromas with a touch of earth on the nose of Big Papa. Dark stoned-fruits, with the actual pit smell coming out, backed by clove and herbal notes. It was questionably stewy smelling (not usually a good characteristic) with pepper and licorice used to cover it up.

All smells point to huge...

All flavors were not as big as I had hoped. A dry attack led to a soft and mildly fruity midpalate at medium+ bodied and velvety smooth. Finishing dry and not overly tannic at all. I was surprised, for mostly new French oak and 100% Cab, this (hypothetically) should have been bigger.

Deep and complex but not big and abrasive. One would call this a beautiful fine. I would call it that but it did not soothe my craving.

I think Alanis Morissette put it melodically as "it's like 10,000 spoons when all you need is a knife." Which isn't exactly irony, it's just more so not what you're looking for. And thus is life.

Score: 7.