Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Concannon 2004 Central Coast Chardonnay

*Bottle #13: Concannon 2004 Central Coast Chardonnay 
*Price: $9
*Running Tab: $167

I started my "wine studies" by reading a book written by the wine editor for Food and Wine Magazine. Her whole premise was to teach her neighbor - Rolling Stone Magazine film critic Peter Travers - the basics of wine. The only varietal Travers enjoyed at the beginning of this trial and error was a "fatty Chardonnay."

The only varietal I knew I did not enjoy was the stereotypical "fatty Chardonnay."

Fixed reasons for repelling: tastes like cubes of butter and wood chips, looks like the wheat fields where I attended college and brings a nostalgia of this dirty old man at a bar I used to tend at. 

So I brought in a heavy hitter to knock down my padlocked, double-latched, closed doors that I thought even butter couldn't grease open. 

I've heard people rave about Concannon's 2004 Petite Sirah as well as their Pinot Noir, whose vines flourish in the Livermore Valley of Central Coast, California - a high-profile legit grape-growing region. Taking on their Chardonnay was a safe bet. Plus it was $9 and my wallet liked that. 

The Concannon Chardonnay had quite a big nose for that specific grape, who usually has a dainty aroma. We're talking Adrian Brody vs. Heidi Montag's new schnoz here. A big, expensive bouquet of citrusy, warm climate aromas like tangerines and pineapple opened up around the rim of the glass with some oak, honey and a lot of butterscotch - not so much butter. 

It smells like it would make a couple insta-classic Ben & Jerry flavors. 

I dared to followthrough and taste the wine. I'm glad I did. I've had much more acidic wines (see: Sauvignon Blanc or Fume Blanc reviews) but the Concannon held a smooth and stable, medium-bodied acidity. It wasn't too much, too little, it was just right. And the heat - that throat burning sensation I love - was solid all the way down. A balanced portion of alcohol vs. sugars, less drastic than the Adrian and Heidi nose parallels. 

There was a distinct buttery aftertaste - which I was afraid of - it was rich, full-flavored and creamy... And I liked it. But it was still a Chardonnay... It's an anomaly. 

Score: 7. 

No comments: