Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Facelli Winery 2003 Private Reserve Syrah


*Bottle #51: Facelli Winery 2003 Private Reserve Bacchus Vineyard Syrah
*Price Tag: $28
*Running Tab: $599

Things you should know by now:
1) I have a weak spot for artisan winemakers.
2) I have another one for Italian wine.

Take a small-town, 3,000-case producing, Italian winemaker and now you're getting somewhere - Lou Facelli of Facelli Winery in Woodinville, WA.

The general experience of Facelli Winery is a little ordinary compared to some of its neighbors (see all that is the chateau of Ste. Michelle Estates and the REI-modeled new Novelty-Hill/Januik Wineries building). The tasting room looks like an office kitchen with a 6-foot bar shoved in it, complete with an easy-access sink, a simple dual-rack dishwasher and personalized coffee mugs.

Getting into the tasting room while you can during their 8-hour open-to-the-public weekly cycle is a must. You will be crammed in the corner, bumping up against someone who either smells or has been tasting a lot that day and your wine glass will empty rather quickly as they do not pour hefty loads of their half French, half Italian wines.

However, you will have a full-on Lou Facelli encounter.

Button-up shirt (often times flannel), fastened to his belly with faux silver-clipped suspenders, a black beret that may or may not match, all accompanied by his mustache which may or may not have a smile under it. He's constantly hustling from one glass to the next, pouring wine for you while explaining it to the guy next to you. And he signs every single bottle that is purchased from that register, even ones that are ordered and shipped over the phone.

Facelli has been in the biz since 1981, releasing his first vintage in 1988 and has kept his nose to the grindstone ever since - wife Sandy and two daughters, Lisa and Lori, are usually present in the tasting room, in the cellar and slaving during harvest. It's a family affair from grapes that are hand-picked, hand-sorted and made into wine with love, dedication and relationships.

That is an artisan winemaker.

This is an artisan wine: the 2003 Private Reserve Syrah was the first of its kind. The fruit was sourced from specific rows of grapes in the Bacchus Vineyard (think back to Cuillin Hills' Weinbau Vineyard Cab Franc - same grapegrowing company). These specific Syrah grapes are cropped at a lower tonnage per acre = smaller grapes = more concentrated fruit. 100% Syrah, 100% French oak barrels and 100% Bacchus. An equation for some good ish.

The boldness and the beauty of this wine is embodied in its rich purple dye of the glass. Small dark berries (think blackberries and blueberries), vibrant spices and an awesome game note (meaty bacon!) fill up the nose. Extremely aromatic and mouthwatering.

The same aromas transfer over to the attack of the wine, that inital sip, but seem to dampen over the midpalate. Fortuntely, the finish saves the impression of the wine, almost baking the tastebuds and leaving them plump with flavor from well-rounded tannins and dark fruit.

Drink this bottle now. If that midpalate is even slightly dwindling now, I can't imagine this Syrah lasting much longer. As for today, it's pretty appetizing. Lou should be proud.

Score: 7.5.

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