*Bottle #46: Gilbert Cellars 2006 Columbia Valley Allobroges *Price Tag: $24 *Running Tab: $537
Here's one of my favorite "industry perks:" Wine events, wine people, wine talk usually involves cheap or free wine. And there is nothing wrong with free, even if it's not a good free, it's still free.
This week's freebie was a bottle of "Allobroges" from Gilbert Cellars, a Rhone Valley structured blend straight from Yakima, WA.
Here's a tid bit of contrasting information: The state of Washington is known particularly for growing Bordeaux varietals that exemplify the original region of France itself.
What: Bordeaux red varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) and white varietals (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon).
Why: Washington's latitude - 45°31' N. France's latitude - 44°1 N. Pretty similar.
French is French? Not necessarily. Considering a different grape variety can be as different as a banana is to an apple, those different varietals grow differently in different climates, soils, sun exposure, land sloping, etc.
The Rhone Valley, located in Southern France, has many varietals that grow beautifully in both Washington and California, but the latter exceptionally well because of California's similar latitude to Rhone.
However, despite the geographical contrasts, Rhone varietals have the potential to grow beautifully and distinctly in Washington State.
Gilbert's Cellars seemed to agree but it appeared as if the wine was a little afraid to show off its swimming legs before taking the big dive into impressing me.
The "Allobroges" - originally a group of Celtic people who roamed the Rhone Valley during the Roman Empire and "dark, rich red wines" - is now a mastered blend of 60% Syrah, 22% Grenache and 18% Mourvedre.
With a classic Rhone nose full of spice and bright fruit, the depth of the aroma truly opened up after a half hour of uncorked bottle time into a dark and rich red wine.
The winemaker's notes mention a "fleshy" dark fruit tone and I couldn't have said it better myself. However, that "umpf" doesn't come out until some oxygen has coaxed the wine into really going all out.
First sip of this wine, I found it light with not much flavor, a supple acidity and a mediocre palate. It wasn't bad, I just wasn't blown away. It had the potential for substance but stopped a little short. It seemed to have all the right things - a good name, good people behind the label, good fruit, a decent vintage and harvest...
And just when I had given up home, the Allobroges came through. Earthy, medium+ bodied and lovely spice tones with "fleshy" dark fruit. Job well done.
Score: 8.
4 comments:
Nice review! I have not tried Gilbert Cellars 2006 Allobroges but I have quaffed their ‘2006 Estate Malbec’. I’ll give the Allobroges a try.
I wouldn’t put too much into the “latitude theory”, more marketing than anything else. As Gregutt points out, “…Mongolia and Minnesota are also on the same latitudes’ as Washington’s AVA’s and Napa’s is parallel with Algeria.” Cheers.
As someone that's on the sales side of wine, I can wholeheartedly understand the "latitude theory" as a marketing push. I believe it makes a bit of an impact but when it comes down to it, the quality of the grape and the soils/climate it's grown in is all that matters!
The Allobroges was my first impression of Gilbert, whom I've heard lots about. I've been looking for a Walla Walla winery to go after too. I figure if you're quoting Gregutt and are familiar with the area, you have any recommendations other than the usual (Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, etc.)?
I'd recommend the following Walla Walla wineries: Rulo, Abeja, Ash Hollow, Seven Hills, K Vintners and Sleight of Hands. Also, I’d add Gramercy Cellars but by the time I made it there on my last visit my palate was wasted in a very good way. Cheers
Three Rivers is also really good.
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