Friday, September 26, 2008

Eden Cellars 2003 Forbidden Red Wine

*Bottle #33: Eden Cellars 2003 Columbia Valley Forbidden Red Wine
*Price: $13
*Running Tab: $447

On a hedonistic indulgence binge, I consumed a large amount of wine, all starting with this little number from Eden Cellars. I thought if I'm going to intentionally sin, I might as well do it with a wine sporting devilishly good fashion.

Smartly positioned and coyly playing off the biblical and sinful desire for the prohibited, Eden Cellars' Forbidden Red quotes the great Mark Twain with such tact and perfection. "There is a charm about the forbidden that makes it unspeakably desirable," Twain wrote. Nicely said and kudos to Eden Cellars for making the connection. If there are two things we all know I love together, it is wine and well-versed older men. No point in denying it anymore.

I decided to pair up with a semi-versed, little bit older man and taste this wine out, to hear someone else's opinion up against or with my own for my usual winescapades. Plus he's been in the biz longer than yours truly and had a slight contribution this week. His notes are included with mine and I will probably take credit for all of them but I'm attempting to acknowledge him now!

Here's my accustomed disclaimer: I really liked this wine for all that it was. $13 for a table wine that packed a punch (15.2% alcohol). For one such hedon, that was a decent amount for Bottle #1 (of many) for the evening.

Hailing from the oldest vine-growing regions in Washington State, the Forbidden Red from Horse Heaven Hills shot off aromas of pepper, blue and blackberries, black olives and a very strange stewed note. Not bad, just strange. There was an all-around cigar box smell to it as well, the cedar box combined with tobacco. I was later to find another aroma that was defined to me as "brett" - Brettanomyces, a bacteria that grows in fermentation tanks when not supremely cleaned. The smell was later described to me as "blueberrie pie but instead of crust, you get Band-aid." Yummy.

All sarcasm aside, it was tasty for what it was. Juicy, soft tannins with an extremely dry finish, this medium bodied red had a distinct creaminess to it. Passing over "velvety," it was down right like skim milk. Again, not a bad thing. Just not exactly what I was expecting from Horse Heaven Hills grapes... Or maybe just wine, in general...

I feel very Presidential-candidate-esque about this wine. I couldn't make up my mind on my stance and said something about it the first time trying it and then said this later. What's the political terminology? Flip-flopper?

I think I'll just stick to wine.

Score: 5.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Balsamroot Winery 2007 Edelzwicker


*Bottle #32: Balsamroot Winery 2007 Columbia Valley Edelzwicker
*Price: $18
*Running Tab: $434 (yowza!)

See that picture in the bottom right? That was at the adorable little house that is Balsamroot Winery, home of Ivan the Red, Endless Summer Rose, plentifully abundant antipasti boards and a pourer who claimed to not wear his wedding ring because he was above the restraints of symbolism. 

Later that night, after excessive wine-ing and a few dozen tequila shots down, we ran into said winerd who was acting much more like he just didn't believe in marriage, let alone the symbolism of the marital band not on his finger. Men. 

Fortunately for the unnamed cellar worker, the bad grape didn't ruin the bunch. Judy and Don Phelps, owners of Balsamroot Winery pride themselves on their wine and obviously the remaining good grapes of their employee cluster. "Nature, sunshine, good times, family and friends" are given unto each of their bottles, they claim, from some of the best land in Columbia Valley - the up and coming, almost an AVA, Lake Chelan Valley. 

Robust and flavonoid-packed reds, acidic and fruity whites, Balsamroot Winery whistles a similar tune to anybody making decent wines, but where they sing a little bit louder is with the Edelzwicker. Sounds like a big-boned, angry German broad, but it's merely half Riesling and half Gewurztraminer, traditionally blended from white varietals from Alsace in Northern France by bordering Germans. 

In an attempt to hold onto the warm weather that is dwindling up here in the Seattle area (yes, the sun does shine here from time to time), I drank this off-dry delicacy with the impression that the 1.6% residual sugar wouldn't give me a cavity.

And far from it - it was a refreshing balance of sweetness but astringency, fruity but light. 

The nose carried an air of honey - like your neighbor is baking something with it so you can just smell it from the window but you know you're not going to get to taste it. Makes your mouth water and is backed by apricot, nectarine and other warm-colored fruits, some minerality, lavender and spice. I was a little put off by something strange that took me swirling til my wrist hurt for me to figure out what it was - vasoline. Probably not the most appetizing smell but I went with it.

Glad I did - this was yummy! Judy's tasting notes were spot on: "Sweet but tart," big and juicy, acidic and crisp. I'm noticing Washington grown Rieslings, if plucked off the wine at a decent time, can be quite drinkable at any time. This should be served ice cold, however, because as the chill began to melt, so did the flavors. The Edelzwicker had a pronounced mid-palate but seemed to damper off in the finish. 

"Ed" was tasty but temperamental, big but delicate. You know how those German women are. 

Score: 6.5.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

DiStefano 2003 Syrah R


*Bottle #31: DiStefano 2003 Columbia Valley Syrah R
*Price: $29
*Running Tab: $419 (Yikes!)

I first fell in love with wine when I was 20. I had a very fake ID which I used in restaurants that wouldn't dream of an underager coming in and violating their liquor control rules. I'd take full advantage of their conviction and break the law, not with shots of tequila or vodka Redbulls, but, with glasses of Barnard Griffin Cab-Merlot and Bogle Petit Syrah. 

I was a bona fide badass. 

At 20, grocery store labels like the previously mentioned were all I knew before I was spoiled and snotted up merely a year later. And I loved them for all they were worth. My average bottle was $9 (usually on sale with my Safeway card) and the brightly-lit, highly-leveled wine aisle was my oyster. Once I thought I knew what I was talking about with wine (still don't), I was first smitten by Syrah, the full-bodied, voluptuous, berry-juice-bursting varietal. She sure was perdy.

We got over each other like any other college break-up - she went her way, many others falling for her easy-drinking and bright fruitiness, I went mine and had a tough-love phase with some robust Cabs and boring Merlots. 

But like many first loves, it was hard to get her out of my mind. We ran into each other a couple years down the road at DiStefano Winery in Woodinville, WA. And she looked good. After taking her around the block again, I decided to go in for the kill of the $29 purchase. 

The DiStefano 2003 Syrah R was noted as a "traditionally produced Rhone-style wine," which is a soft spot for me. I love Rhone varietals (Grenache, Viognier, Roussane, Marsanne, Syrah included), I'm rarely disappointed by one that's grown in Washington - they say the state has similar latitude to that France place. 

Blending traditional Rhone varietals is a given, but here, winemaker Hillary Sjolund put a little white into her red - 94% Syrah, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% Viognier. I like that because for a varietal that's known to be super juicy and full of berries (usually blueberries), the Syrah R now has a great floral note on the nose as well as some supple acidity on the palate.

The rest of the bouquet held in some dark berries and stoned fruits with a slight mineral touch. It wasn't overwhelming aromatic at first but it opened up dramatically over time. I think this was a perfect experiment as far as decanting a wine is considered - the 2003 Syrah R had some quality time spent in the bottle and required a bit of attention from the air. 

I couldn't believe how much the wine really came into its full expression probably after at least 45 minutes of oxidation. I never really picked up on much of a tannic structure but there were distinct red fruits, a lot of plum and was a satisfyingly big, juicy Syrah. The finish was mocha and plum, lingering just long enough to make a better second impression. 

My only complaint: I think there might have been a little too much alcohol on the nose. Now I don't know how Hillary may have covered that up but I drank this with my friend who declared he knows nothing about wine and much of what he could smell was the 14.6% liquor. 

As far as drinking Syrah again, it was good to spend some time with her but I really think I've grown out of our love but will foreverly be burdened with a bit of vulnerability with her. Aw, love. 

Score: 6.5. 

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Carhartt 2006 Pinot Noir


*Bottle #30: Carhartt 2006 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir
*Price: $30
*Running Tab: $390

While we were down touring Santa Barbara County, somewhat mimicking the "Sideways" wine trail, we ended up in Los Olivos - the teeny tiny town (kind of looked like a street more than anything) that is home to the world's smallest tasting room.

The room is advertised as just "one block north of the Flagpole" (because there is only one) and appeared to be a well-kept shack. Mike Carhartt, a man of no relation to the hunting apparel line, was sitting behind his tasting bar and that alone took up 1/3 of the room. It was small. Rocking out to Guns N'Roses - which he claimed belonged to his son - Mike poured multiple wines that struck me as unique to not only the terrior and my own palate but I think the influence of the farmer-turned-vintner's love for his craft made an impact as well. 

Carhartt (the farmer) and his wife, Brooke (the chemist), threw together this dream and now have their tasting studio and the only vineyard in Los Olivos, with estate grown Merlot and Syrah. So of course, I left with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir...

The couple sourced their grapes for the Pinot from the nearby Santa Rita Hills which is growing in its abundance of plush Pinot Noir grapes so Mike and I came to the conclusion this was a good buy. 

Ruby red, almost pretty in pink, the Pinot from the Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard gave off a musty, earthy/borderline gamey aroma full of red currants, vanilla and bright red berries (probably strawberries). A little bit of that typical cherry for the grape and some subtle pepper notes stuck out alongside the initial scents. 

The weight of the wine was fairly light once I decided to toss back the glass, full of those red berries and bright fruits with mild acidity and the perfect amount of warmth as it went down. 

Ideally, I wish I would have given this wine a little more bottle time. I think it was too early to showcase its bests but showed great potential to age to a more elegant complexity and gain some structure/backbone. It was drinkable now and I really like what it had to offer but I'd give it at least another year or so in the cellar. Too bad I only bought one bottle...

Score: 7.